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A craftsman at work on a diamond in the Bulgari workshops in Rome. Seasoned fashion journalists to this day remember that show as one of the most magical moments of their lives. For morning it must be very simple, and for the evening it must be smaller and, if you wish, a little more fancy. Every pair is hand-inspected, not once, but twice; leather seams may be skived by machine but the process is repeated a second time by hand.

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The pioneering pair introduced the Jacquard loom into the factory, which mechanised the weaving process and, because it could produce elaborate designs in intricate weaves, made possible a larger output of fine woollen shawls and babushka, or head scarves, in wool, cotton and silk. Lively, insightful text explores manufacturing processes and materials, revealing how the most revered fashion brands have maintained astonishingly long lineages.

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